Fixing a leak in irrigation - broken pipe

This is a sprinkler in my lawn.  

The water is not spraying out of the sprinkler like it should, nor coming properly out of any other sprinkler.  So much water is flowing out from the sides of this sprinkler that there is not enough pressure in the reticulation system.

Watch the water flow elegantly across the footpath and down the street.

To get a closer look, I unscrew the sprinkler

Remove the guard

Remove the PVC pipe around the sprinkler hole

Can't see a problem.  So let's dig a bigger hole.

I can't get a spade to go through grass, even with my entire weight on the spade.

The trick is to use the corner of the blade (I discover eventually).

After hacking a 50 cm x 50 cm square cut of grass

I

I lever around it with the spade

and lift it out

The soil is stuck together with roots, I found this narrow pointy trowel useful to get the soil apart. Fiskars trowel $1.93 at Bunnings.

Digging around the pipe reveals the problem.  The pipe is completely snapped.

I cut the broken section of pipe out with a hacksaw.  A full size hacksaw is too big to get into a hole like this.  I used this Trojan Junior Hacksaw ($4.70 at Bunnings)

There is a gap of about 35 cm between the two ends of pipe in the ground.

First I reinstall a new T fitting.  This is a 25mm x 0.5 inch fitting ($3.45).  The fitting that you need to use depends on the size of your pipe and sprinklers.  After you cut the old one of the the ground you can take it to the shop when you buy the new one.

To glue the fitting in, use green cement. Here I use Bostik Plumbers Mate PVC-U Pipe Cement ($5.97 at Bunnings).

This is a telescopic coupler ($10.55 at Bunnings), it allows pipes to be repaired without taking them out of the ground.

After applying cement to both surfaces, slide the inside shaft of the coupler into place.

Leave to dry overnight.

Screw sprinkler back in

Pack down soil underneath the pipe. 

Replace grass block. 

Fill in gap around grass with soil

Fixed.  Now there is enough pressure back in the system to discover the next broken sprinkler. 

 Remember, next time buy an apartment.

ugly bed part 1

This is my bed.

 

Or the headboard at least.  3 months since moving in it remains unassembled.

Apparently I thought that fake rustic looked cool in 1996.

 

It's made from recycled Oregon.  When I bought it, the salesman insisted that the Oregon was originally sourced from "Oregon trees grown in Australia".  This is interesting, because "Oregon" is not a tree: it is just the name for the wood (like Tas Oak).  Oregon comes from Douglas Fir, a softwood harvested from native forests in North America. 

Oregon used to be commonly used for scaffolding etc on building sites in NSW, where I bought this bed (Newtown). Its long fibres make it creak and groan well before it gives way: more so than other wood or metal.  This makes it safer for this use.   Each beam was only used for a limited period so there was plenty around for recycling.

Never buy stuff from dodgy salesmen in Newtown.

 

I don't want to buy a new bed right now so I've been thinking about painting it.  I went to Kenwick Paint Supplies to get expert advice. Bloke said 
1. wood that has already been stained won't absorb more stain unless it is completely stripped back
2. you could varnish it, but it will leave unsightly brush marks unless you spray or are very experienced
3. you could enamel paint it white, but even that may not stick, but you can try
4. primer undercoat will stick.

Sounds like very sensible advice from a bloke who seemed to know his stuff. Which I intend to ignore.   In any case, I'm not really sure if the bed has been stained already or just sealed.

I couldn't buy the stuff at Kenwick paints after ignoring his advice. I might need his advice again one day. Over the road to Bunnings Kenwick.  

I bought a Rosket 25mm natural bristle paint brush for $4.25 and tested two options on the back of the headboard.

Option 1:
1.   Wattyl Satin Stain and Varnish (Walnut colour).  $15.98 @ Bunnings for the smallest tin.

Looks better than I expected, and also appears to be sticking.  Tested with fingernail. 24 hrs drying time between coats.

I think that the fact that the stain sticks suggests that the wood is not already stained, so I think the stain will work OK.



2.  British Paints All in One sealer primer undercoat.  $4.65 @ Bunnings for a sample pot.

This has very visible brush marks, creating an interesting effect. Also appears to stick. I prefer the stain, but I still like the white better than the current look.

Another problem with this bed is that it has a rough finish, so it seems to attract fluff.

My plan is:
1. Sand readily accessible surfaces with a belt sander.  This is not to strip the wood, it is more to remove the rough bits that catch the fluff.
2. Paint with Wattyl Stain
3. If this fails, paint over with British Paints All-In-One.
4. If this fails, firewood.

Suggestions welcome.

Bulk rubbish collection

This quality product was manufactured by Thrift Furniture 108 Belmont Avenue Belmont WA

Wolf Heavy Duty Drill Type NW2cE Wolf Electric Tools Ltd London W5

Selleys Fruit Tree Spray containing Lebaycid 50% Fenthion Nett Contents 1 Fl Oz For the control of fruit fly, codlin moth, light brown apple moth, peach tip moth, oriental peach moth etc

tap repair FAIL

This is my bathroom. I estimate its age as 1970's.

This is my dripping shower.

 

To fix a dripping shower, take out the tap and replace the washer. First remove the handle.

 

Oops forgot

 

Take off the bonnet

 

 

 Some genius has grouted this tap into the wall.  Bummer.

Chisel

OK so the grout is all out, but there still isn't room to turn the tube spanner.  The wannabe keyhole surgeon has made the tile hole just small enough to put over the tap. Remember, this is a 1970's tile job so this means that the washer hasn't been changed for a while. 

Grrr

OK there's enough room to turn the spanner now

But it won't turn.

Need more POWER.

And I still can't turn it!

I applied as much pressure as I could without leaning in to it.  If I apply more, I'm afraid of bending the pipe or something else bad.  Time to call the plumber.

FAIL